Salty fish and blood sausage

After waking up relatively early we headed over to the world famous Cafe Tortoni. I picked up the Buenos Aires Herald on the way, and once seated enjoyed a cafe cortado (Argentine version of a macchiato) and a glass of fresh squeezed pomelo (grapefruit) juice. I like the Herald, BA's daily English language paper. It has a nice little three page sports section in the back and a good focus on Latin American affairs. It's refreshing to have a 28-page paper, since the NY Times rarely has that much more news but requires all the extra space for the ads.

After a good healthy morning walk Lunch was had at El Cuartito, a venerable Buenos Aires pizza establishment since 1934. The style of pizza in Buenos Aires is a thicker crust, we shared a "pizza mixta" which was half mozzarella and half anchovies. Salty fish is delicious. There are apparently a number of good Italian style thin-crust pizza places scattered throughout the city but I figured we might as well start with the institution.

Dinner was supposed to be at Viejo Indecente in our new hood, Palermo Viejo. By the time we arrived to meet the French shoe designer that is a friend of a friend of Drumm's in Brooklyn and her friends at 12.15A for dinner the place was filled, so we headed across the street to Gardelito and enjoy some more Parrilla goodness. We all shared the mixed grill, which included everything from ears to innards to blood sausage alongside more typical fare like the traditional cuts of beef as well as ribs and chicken. The waiter told us a half portion would probably be enough, and he did not lie, it was a struggle just to get through that.

We walked home through Palermo Viejo around 3.00A and the place looked like it was just getting started. Many restaurants were still open and the sidewalks were filled with tables of people drinking and eating.

Tomorrow the day starts with Fiorentina against Lazio live in my living room, and since it's Sunday, the only places open are restaurants. Uh oh.