Both ends of the stick

My last full day in Buenos Aires (the eating parts):

12.25P
La Rosalia is pure goodness in it's most casual form. Located conveniently between our apartment and class is the perfect place to pick up a 'choripan" (chorizo sausage sandwich) or a "morcipan" (blood sausage sandwich), the two staples of a quick Argentine lunch. The parilla is located street side, and orders are placed directly with the grillmaster.

The picture is a good example of the average amount of meat that is being cooked on the grill at any given time. In Argentina (the same is true at home) the asado (bbq) is considered a long-term project. The coals are heated separately from under the main grill and added gradually. Of course no chemicals are ever used on the natural charcoal except for occasionally some quick burning ethyl alcohol in the lighting phase. The grill itself moves up and down so that the heat can be expertly controlled.

Today being close to the end I opt on this day for the morcilla, my logic being that I can find some damn good chorizo sausage in Brooklyn but the blood sausage in this form is a bit tougher to track down. It is served on a simple bun with a touch of chimichurri sauce, delicious. It's just the thing to get me through my upcoming two hour Spanish class.

3.30P
Class complete, I am faced with a conundrum; what to eat that won't be too heavy, but still something that's exciting. A small portion of the ceviche at aforementioned Zadvarie DOC is just the thing.

11.00P
The main place I had been wanting to try for dinner was Thymus, the much heralded French-inspired high cuisine on the edge of Villa Crespo. We had tried to go once before but they had had no tables available. This time I take no chances and call ahead to make a reservation, a process that went quite smoothly, making me very happy with my ability to speak Spanish.

Thymus is a big part of the new guard of restaurants in Buenos Aires. Cluinary students from across Latin America now flock to Buenos Aires to study at one of the famous institutes there like the Insituto Argentino de Gastronomia. There are modern restaurants all over the city, but Palermo has the highest concentration of restaurants in which the food falls under the category "de autor". Thymus is one of a handful of restuarants with highest rating for food on Argentine restuarant sight Oleo. The chef, Fernando Mayoral, studied with the three-starred French chef Michel Bras.

Located on a very quite street a block on the Villa Crespo side of Avenida Cordoba, the security guard standing outside is most visible sign of the restaurant as you approach. There is a small outdoor space and a small entrance space where we wait for our table to be made "lindo." After sitting we were given an aperitif made with herbs, and a small dumpling. Drumm and I both opted for the "degustacion", a sampling of six dishes, two of which are dessert. Drumm's meal:

Reblochon cheese 'creme brulee'
Lamb tongues on leek puree
Beef tenderloin with puff pastry, teleggio cheese, daikon radish, and oyster mushrooms.
Roasted quail over house made ricotta
Cheese plate
Pineapple with sticky toffee pudding.

My Meal:

Cured tenderloin with herbs and lemon
Mullet cooked in light vinegar
Peking duck breast
Lamb with pesto and zucchini
Cheese plate
Assorted ice cream and sorbets

All of the above was delicious. I loved the cured tenderloin and the duck, I think Drumm loved his tongue and tenderloin.

In the end it was our most expensive meal of the trip, but the most interesting. Had the amount been in dollars instead of pesos I think it still would have been well worth it.

Navidad en BsAs

People and books kept telling us that December 24th was a big party night in Buenos Aires. Determined not to miss out on the fun I arranged, through Grant at whatsupbuenosaires to have a table reserved at the Buenos Aires outpost of Crobar. Along for the ride were a couple Californians, a representative from the Windy City and a Brit. After having some champagne at Lucy's (from Coventry) apartment and ultimately failing to eat any dinner (I know I know) we started the night out around 2.00A at the always crowded Janio on Plaza Viejo. After downing more champagne, among other things, we finally headed to the club around 3.45A. Upon arrival we were ushered through the gate (and around the metal detectors) and taken to our table in the VIP area.

Argentines don't particularly like to dance, what they do like is plastic surgery. There were a slew of enhanced women hanging on the arms of men with too much hair. Every once in a while the crowd would away to the music, but it wasn't until sometime after 6.00A that people really picked up the dancing. For most of the time leading up to that the clubgoers tried to look pretty and sized up everyone around them. For some people this might be a problem, for me it was fine. I sat back, enjoyed more champagne, and was amused all the way until I finally left the premises around 7.15A. I would describe the night in more detail, but this is a family blog after all. (Meaning my mother looks at it)

After finally returning to consciousness around 2.00P Christmas day I stumbled out into the streets looking for a lunch that would help me banish the men with hammers inside my head. The streets were relatively deserted and nothing was open, my Jew Sense started to tingle and it lead me down Avenida Cordoba to the first open restaurant I could find, not surprisingly, a Chinese restaurant. Feeling quite comfortable I negotiated for spring rolls, shrimp crackers, curry chicken, and beef with bok choy to go.

Since it was now OK to go on living, we headed into Recoleta for what turned out to be a very pleasant few hours with our new expat friends from California and Australia. Christmas is not a big deal for me, other than it is an opportunity to be with family, which is what I've always done. Seeing as I was thousands of miles from my flesh and blood, I was grateful for the invitation to spend a few hours with people that I like. The Aussies next stop on their world tour is the Big Apple, and I can think of at least one destination for a Spurs fan visiting our lovely city.

Rapido y furioso

My time running out, the stretch run is upon us. Believe it or not there remain restaurants to try.

First off, I have returned to Zadvarie DOC twice since my last post. I remain a huge fan. Both of these trips were for the purpose of trying the famed ceviche, and both times it came through in the clutch. Both the "ceviche mixto" (calamari, shrimp, and mero) and the "ceviche de lenguado y camarones" were delicious. My other pleasant discovery is the licuado (essentially an argentine smoothie) version of chicha morada which is, according to saltshaker, a traditional Peruvian soft drink made with purple corn. (the foto at left was also taken from saltshaker) I'll address it in my final post, but I think Zadvarie is an early favorite to make the favorite places list.

I have mixed feelings about restaurants without signs, and about restaurants that are named for their address. The unmarked "Ocho 7 Ocho" (878) fits into both of those catagories. Try as I might, I can't really bring myself to hate it. After being turned away from Thymus we headed into Villa Crespo to find 878 which is behind an unmarked set of doors at 878 Thames. Drumm and I shared an order of tender mussels in olive oil and garlic and an order of delicious hand-cut lomo carpaccio. Drumm went for crochettes de lomo, which were breaded pieces of meat served with mashed potatoes. I had the melo (that cod-like fish) that was served with an excellent spicy tomato marmalade and a warm lentil salad. We washed it all down with a Bodega Weinart Cabernet Sauvignon that I liked. After dinner we headed to the bar to sample the impressive collection of whiskeys. Though we passed the flight of whiskeys is a good deal including four 1 oz shots of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Caol Ila, and others.

Putting the modern food aside, we headed to El Trapiche (in my case back to, but it was Drumm's first time) for more meat. Again it was packed with Portenos who all seemed to be in a remarkably good mood. We were determined to order a ridiculous amount of food and despite the resistance of our waiter managed to convince him to give us a morcillo (blood sausage) and a Palta American (Avocado filled with shrimp and heart of palm) for our entrada course. After disposing with those our waiter delivered our meats. I don't like to take photos of my food in restaurants (I prefer to eat it), this is a time I regret it. Jorge (our waiter) brought us four foot long skirt steaks (Entrana) and three of the biggest pieces of pork flank (Matambrito de cerdo, the house specialty) you've ever seen. An injured Drumm struggled gamely to eat his share, but provided no support at all when it came to the 1997 Luigi Bosca Cabernet Sauvignon, which was delicious but was overwhelmed a bit by the meat. In the end we had to admit to Jorge that our eyes were a bit bigger than our stomachs, which prompted affectionate laughter. I love this place, nothing pretentious, just good food.

Exotic Social Paradise

Pablo, our opera singing Spanish teacher who hates to party, recommended two places in Palermo, the first, already chronicled here, was Zadvarie DOC, the second is Social Paraiso. Social Paraiso is a small family run restaurant that cooks modern Portena food. I've been twice, both times for lunch and both times I had el menu del dia. They offer two choices for the entrada and two options for the plato principe. My first excursion I had a cold lentil and chicken salad followed by bondiolas of pork with onions cooked sauteed in red wine and mashed potatoes. Both were excellent. The second visit I had a salad of grilled vegetables followed by grilled pieces of "melo" which I think is type of cod... i'm working on that. Again, both were successful. The menu del dia

Most workers break for lunch around 1.00P here, and it's very common to see groups of workers out to lunch together around this time. Many of the restaurants in Palermo have a mixed crowd, with people ranging from young to old with the odd tourist mixed in. The service veers more towards the Italian model, meaning that there isn't a whole lot. (The club was an exception, more on that later)

La Dorita proved an effective version of a Parilla. We were craving a meat bonanza, and a meat bonanza was delivered. We started with a tostada with jamon y queso and a morcilla (blood sausage) just to warm up. after that we dug into a half portion of skirt steak and a full portion of tira de asado (ribs). Whoever decided on portion size in Argentina is clearly out of their mind and wonderfully so I might point out. A half portion of skirt steak was two foot long steaks, and the portion of ribs was three racks of ribs cut through the bone (like Kalbi for example).

Don Julio is not chic, which is to say it's exactly as a parilla should be. The brown leather on the tables and the open grilling station (see left) are both good signs. I stopped in for an Argentine lunch; a half portion of Lomo (tenderloin) with a simple side salad. Something so simple, yet so delicious. The cut of meat was cooked jugoso (rare) as requested, but the meat was so tasty that it was not chewy at all. Drumm will be headed here on his own after I depart so for a more complete discription you may have to wait.

Needing a break the day after the aforementioned "meat bonanza" we headed across the tracks to Palermo Hollywood to a restaurant called Azema Exotic Bistro. The Argentines who frequent my favorite restaurant review site gave this place one of the highest rankings in the city. The food is a mix of creole, french, and various asian foods. We started with a small plate of Vietnamese spring rolls that tasted like, well, Vietnamese fried spring rolls. They were served with two sauces, one sweet and one hot, and I have do admit the hot was hot, which made me very happy. We shared two entradas, a passion fruit infused salmon tartar, that was chunks of Salmon as opposed to the more normal ground technique, and a dish called "Pate Creole," which truned out to be an empanada filled with shredded chicken and pork. As for the plato principe, Matt had pork ribs, his second attempt at pork ribs in Buenos Aires, which were fine. I had a sesame lamb dish that was small pieces of sesame encrusted lamb served with vegetables in a curry sauce. Again, it was fine. At the waiter suggestion, we drank a nice Rutini 2004 Malbec - Cabernet that was delicious.

Feliz Navidad

Steaks and Ceviche

The football season over, Portenos have move on to planning their January flight from the city. With my own departure now squarely in sight (I return to Brooklyn a week from Saturday) I'm hitting the home stretch, running out of meals, and there are still many restaurants to be tried.

This week has included trips to Parillas ranging from the old school, and delicious, El Portugues (left), the equally old school and equally delicious El Trapiche to the more modern and slightly less delicious, but still good, Miranda. I've eaten many different cuts of the cow here, but the focus has been on the Lomo (Tenderloin), Bife de Chorizo (Sirloin), Ojo de Bife (Rib-eye). When I've strayed from these three staples it's been towards the parts of the cow that we don't generally get the opportunity to partake in in the states. The Parilla also does put other animals on the grill, and at various times lamb, chicken, and pork have made cameos at our table. The one dish I haven't tried yet, but certainly will, is the duck confit on the grill. Yeah that's right, I said it. Duck confit on the grill.

Much of the cooking in the Palermo area is modern, and a number of restaurants in BsAs claim Peruvian influence in their kitchens. One of those that fits in both those catagories is called Zadvarie DOC. I haven't seen this place pop up in any guide books yet, but based on the quality of the food, it most certainly will. I ate lunch there and had the chef's menu of the day. (On the chalkboard at left) It started with a grain salad and continued with fettuccine served with bok choy, portobello mushrooms. The food is modern without a doubt, but everything was successful. Their specialties include Ceviche and modern versions of classic Peruvian dishes. I'll report on these after my return trip.

The week included a trip to Vietnam, complete with a monsoon. Friday night, in need of a break from the steaks we ehaded to a place called Green Bamboo in Palermo Hollywood. Consistent with the neighborhood the inside was design heavy, filled with folk art. We sat at the bar while we waited for our table and the Belgian bartender served up a fine negroni. Drumm drank something girlie, you'd have to ask him about that. (Update: It was some drink that included Mango & Tequila) Once we were seated we delved into th Vietnamese inspired menu. A couple nondescript starters (I think it was a fried squid dish and spring rolls) preceded the main course. Drumm had marinated pork ribs, that were succulent, and I had a heap of duck called Vit Quay with was duck sauteed with shitake mushrooms and ginger. Very tasty. While we were eating the skies opened and rain flooded the streets until six in the morning. We ducked into the bar hoping to wait it out, but like New York, there were no cabs to be found, and so it was a wet walk home that night.

Thursday night we head to Saltshaker, a private dinner in Barrio Norte hosted by an American expat (New York to be specific) that was featured in last Sunday's NY Times. Full report to follow of course.

Gaucho style round up

There is much to catch up on, from authentic porteno to river fish to the ever present parilla.

Many of the restaurants in Palermo Viejo are hip places that could be relatively easily transported to any cosmopolitan city across the world. Club Eros is not one of those places, something I am quite thankful for. Club Eros is a little indoor soccer club with a restaurant attached. The entire menu fits on a small card, and consists of a couple pastas, and three grilled options along with potatoes down a handful of ways. The place is filled with workers on their lunch break. A square meal, with a cup of wine, sets you back around what it costs for a cup of coffee in New York. Sure, you don't get to choose how your steak is cooked (Portenos ten to like their meat around medium done, too much cooking for my tastes), and the presentation is unceremonious, but the atmosphere more than makes up for it.

Ladies and gentlemen I would like to introduce you to the Pacu, which we enjoyed at a restaurant in Palermo Hollywood called Jangada. After reading the following passage in the NY Times how could I not go and have a try?

"...Jangada, where locals go for the pacú, a lumbering cousin of the piranha that can grow as large as 60 pounds. Jangada’s serving is the size of a porterhouse. Grilled until crispy, the flesh is firm but flaky, and so succulent that from the first bite you’ll understand how it earned its nickname, el lechón del rió, or suckling pig of the river. Pacú is worshiped in Argentina but a rare sight in Buenos Aires. And it’s certainly not anything you’ll find on a menu in the East Village."

To be honest, in general I am not a huge fan of cooked seafood, I tend to prefer my swimming creatures raw. This fish, however, was fantastic. The meat was tender without being too flaky, and the flavor terrific. It was prepared simply, grilled on both sides, and served with a little lemon to squeeze over it. The restaurant itself was very nice, our camarera as well, who complimented us on our ability to understand Castellano, and complimented our choice of wine, a San Felicien Cabernet Sauvignon, which turned out to be very tasty.

The week's highlights also included a return to La Cabrera for meat (and a piece of cheese) off the grill, a trip to the stylish and modern Bar Uriarte for risotto with a lamb ragout, as well as repeated trips to the comfortable Bar Seis for lunch and/or caffeine.

Most of the city was obsessed this week with the end to the Apertura season of the Argentine football league. Boca Juniors' late slide (they lost their final two games) set up a one game playoff with a team called Estudiantes, from La Plata, another city in Buenos Aires province. Estudiantes won 11 of their final 12 games lead by the return of hometown hero Juan Sebastian Veron, and their coach, former national team captain Diego Simeone, about whom the Argentines say, "He played with a knife between his teeth.

The game lived up to its hype, Estudiantes came back after giving up and early goal to tie the game in the 62nd minute and take the lead for good with a goal nine minutes from time. I watched the game in a bar in Plaza Cortazar, split down the middle with fans of the two sides. I have to say, the Boca fans took the loss quite well, taking responsibility for the singing after the game when the Estudiantes fans were busy crying tears of joy over their first title since 1983.